GEORGE FREETH by Verge

In 2001, Arthur C. Verge's "George Freeth: King of the Surfers and California's Forgotten Hero" was published in the California Historical Society's magazine California History, quickly establishing his work as the major resource on the man best known as "The Father of California Surfing."





Arthur's article is reproduced here, with his permission and with a number of images from the original publication. We just ask that if you really enjoy this look into the life of George Freeth and want to donate to a good cause, that you make a donation to the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, Southern California Chapter:

Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, Southern California Chapter
CFF, So Cal Chapter Donations
CFF Volunteering

To read , please go to:

"George Freeth: King of the Surfers and California's Forgotten Hero"

2008 ASP Masters in Brazil

[ Excerpt of an ASP press release: "Brazil to Host Historic Assemblage of Talent for 2008 ASP World Masters," EXPN.go.com, May 7, 2008 ]


For the first time in five years, the ASP World Masters Championships will assemble some of the most legendary names in professional surfing to Rio de Janeiro's Barra de Tijuca from June 30 through July 6, 2008 to crown the 2008 ASP World Masters and ASP World Grand Masters Champions.

The Rio Masters will feature two divisions in the ASP Masters (surfers aged over 35) and the ASP Grand Masters (surfers aged over 47). The top 14 in each division are invited directly off of ASP career ratings (points being accrued by winning ASP World Titles, Top 5 World rankings, Top 10 World rankings and time spent on the ASP World Tour)...

Confirmed athletes to this season's Rio Masters include former ASP World Champions Mark Occhilupo (AUS), Shaun Tomson (ZAF), Peter Townend (AUS), Rabbit Bartholomew (AUS), Tom Curren (USA), Damien Hardmen (AUS), Martin Potter (ZAF) and Derek Ho (HAW) as well as former ASP World Masters Champions Gary Elkerton (AUS), Michael Ho (HAW), Cheyne Horan (AUS) and Terry Richardson (AUS). Other confirmed athletes include Brad Gerlach (USA), Rob Bain (AUS), Dave Macaulay (AUS), Hans Hedemann (HAW), Buzzy Kerbox (HAW), Simon Anderson (AUS) and Ian Cairns (AUS)...

"Wonderful to have the Masters back on again," [Shaun] Tomson said. "I'll be there with bells on and definitely looking forward to seeing the guys again and having a great event in Rio."

The 2008 Rio Masters will be the first of a three-year license for Brazil, and this year's event will stand alone in terms of Masters events, crowning both the ASP World Masters Champion and ASP World Grand Masters Champion...



( Barra de Tijuca image courtesy of Oglobo.globo.com )


ASP World Masters Championships Past Champions: Aged 35 and over:

2003: Gary Elkerton (AUS)
2001: Gary Elkerton (AUS)
2000: Gary Elkerton (AUS)
1999: Cheyne Horan (AUS)
1998: Joey Buran (USA)
1997: Terry Richardson (AUS)

ASP World Grand Masters Championships Past Champions: Aged 47 and over:

2003: Rabbit Bartholomew (AUS)
2001: Mark Richards (AUS)
2000: Michael Ho (HAW)
1999: Rabbit Bartholomew (AUS)
1998: Buzzy Kerbox (HAW)

For more information, log onto www.aspworldtour.com

J-Bay Reformatted

I finally got around to reformatting Laurence Platt's contribution on J-Bay... recalling the early days of one of the planet's greatest surf zones: Jeffrey's Bay, South Africa...





To view, please go to: Jeffrey's Bay by Laurence Platt

Gerry Lopez Book

Gerry Lopez' book is out, entitled: "Surf Is Where You Find It." One reviewer (Dr. David C. Lane) wrote: "This is a much more philosophical book than one might suspect at first glance. Yes, the stories are about surfing and waves, but the underlying narrative is about HOW TO LIVE. Outstanding collection. Much wisdom."

Kemp Aaberg Interview

"Kemp Aaberg and the Phenomenal Rise of California Surfing - An Interview with William Hale Clarke and David Dahlquist in Carpintaria, California. 12/23/2001" is now available as part of the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection. To read, click on the classic image of Kemp, below:





Image of Kemp Aaberg courtesy of Surfer Magazine

WOODY BROWN (1912-2008)

One of surfing's most eldest of elders -- Woody Brown -- has passed on at the age of 96.

To read about Woody's life, please go to:
LEGENDARY SURFER: WOODY 'Spider' BROWN



1940s image of Woody courtesy of The Surfer's Journal


Woody was a true surfing legend and also one in the sailing and gliding worlds. Personally for me, he was an inspiration and there are aspects of my life that I have modeled from his own. Here's my favorite photo of Woody:



Woody and Malcolm, Paia, mid-1990s - photo by Miya


Links to more info about Woody Brown and his life:


-- Swaylock's
-- Surfer's Path, online edition, 4/21/2008
-- Surfer Magazine - Online edition, 4/21/2008
-- KGMB-TV video, 4/20/2008
-- Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 4/20/2008
-- Honolulu Advertiser, 4/20/2008
-- Maui News, 4/19/2008
-- "Of Wind and Waves: The Life of Woody Brown"
-- Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7/30/2006: "Surf's Still Up for Woody Brown"
-- Maui Rippers, 2006
-- "Surfing For Life"
-- "The Spiritual Journey of Pioneer Surfer Woody Brown" by Drew Kampion, THE SURFER'S PATH, 2001

Paskowitz: "Surfwise"

"SURFWISE follows the odyssey of 85-year-old, legendary surfer Dr. Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz, his wife Juliette, and their nine children¿all of whom were home-schooled on the beaches of Southern California, Hawaii, Mexico and Israel; they surfed every day of their lives, and were forced to adhere to a strict diet and lifestyle by their passionate and demanding, health-conscious father..."

Surfwise Trailer

"Waves of Commodification"

"Waves of Commodification: A Critical Investigation Into Surfing Subculture," A 1999 Thesis Presented to the Faculty of San Diego State University, In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree, Master of Arts in Geography by Michael Alan Reed brings up some important points about what it means to be a surfer, today, in the ever-broadening commercialization of our sport, culture and lifestyle:

"Waves of Commodification"

1965 Chapter Reformat

The chapter on the surfing year 1965 has been reformatted for easier reading and printing.





Image of Felipe Pomar surfing Sunset Beach in 1972 courtesy of Steve Wilkings


In 1965, surfing was already immensely popular in the developed countries. Yet, it -- and 1964 -- were years that demonstrated the growth and robustness of Peruvian surfing, born out of the surf culture of Waikiki around the time of World War II. For this reason, much of this chapter details the Peruvian surf story up to 1965.

A NOTE for teachers and parents: Some of the subject matter in this chapter may not suitable for viewing by children under 16.

Miki Dora "All For A Few..."

David Rensin's "All For a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora" has been published and is a wondrous journey. I'm reading it now and I highly recommend it:








David Rensin's Homepage

Publisher's website