Kivlin and Chouinard Honored

Matt Kivlin and Yvon Choinard will be honored at the forthcoming Malibu Surfing Association's MSA Classic, September 12 & 13.



( Kivlin image courtesy of Surfwriter.com )


For more info, please go to:

Malibu Surfing Association To Honor Kivlin and Patagonia Founder Chouinard



( Kivlin and Simmons, 1950 - image courtesy of Malibulegends.com )


For more about Matt Kivlin's contributions to surfing, please go to:

LS: The Malibu Board

LS Search: Matt Kivlin

Malibu Contest circa 1966

Cal Porter

At 84 years of age, the quintessential Malibu local, Cal Porter has a blog at: Cal Porter: Then and Now






Here's a brief intro Cal wrote about himself:

"I grew up on the beach, and the beach and ocean have been a major influence on my entire life and continue to be. I have always lived where I could see the ocean, the first part of my life in Playa del Rey and for the last 60 years in Malibu. I have found that I can never be away from the beach and ocean for any great length of time. I miss them, my mind dwells on them when I am gone, their magnet draws me back. There is a feeling you get when the surf is up or the water is crystal clear. You want to be out there, you have to be out there, you cannot wait. Other surfers know this feeling. And after, when you come out of the water, happy but cold, and the bright sunshine gradually warms your body, it is the moment of truth. I need to be in the water. I have been in the ocean since I was a baby. You can swim in it, you can surf and dive in it, you can fish in it, you can play in it, you can sail on it, and you can just be near it and sit on the beach, it’s all good.

"I surfed at an early age. I had older brothers, and we had surfboards of one kind or another before I was five years old. I’ve surfed all my life. I’ve bodysurfed all my life. I dived for lobster and abalone and fish for dinner, and I sold them to restaurants and fish markets. I had a small fishing boat and fished commercially. I taught swimming. When I was old enough I became a lifeguard so that I could earn a living and still be on the beach and in the water. Lifeguarding put me through college and graduate school. I became a teacher and then a school principal for many years. But I never left the beach. All my spare time and days off were on the beach. It’s a good thing for me that my family shared my love for the ocean. Most of our trips were to the watery places of the world, where the sea was warm, and the water was clear, and the diving was good, and the waves were big. I lifeguarded for almost 40 years.

"And now many years into retirement I’m still on the beach. I live on the beach. Through my windows I can see the beach. And when that day comes and it’s time to “shuffle off this mortal coil” (Hamlet), I will return to the sea once more."

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Mahalos go out to Gary Lynch and Joe Tabler for the heads-up on Cal's blog.

Kemp Aaberg Interview

"Kemp Aaberg and the Phenomenal Rise of California Surfing - An Interview with William Hale Clarke and David Dahlquist in Carpintaria, California. 12/23/2001" is now available as part of the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection. To read, click on the classic image of Kemp, below:





Image of Kemp Aaberg courtesy of Surfer Magazine

DORA Tribute

A neat video and audio tribute to Da Cat, Miki Dora:

LES WILLIAMS, R.I.P.

Legendary Surfer Les Williams has passed on. Les was the first one to show what could be done with a Quigg Chip at Malibu in the late 1940s. He remained active in surfing and was dedicated to the San Onofre Surfing Club, as a long-time member and recently as President. The club's blog has a bit more about Les at:

San Onofre Surfing Club



(Beach Boys album with Les on the cover courtesy of SOSC)


The LEGENDARY SURFERS collection has an ebooklet that features Les in his earlier years at Malibu:

Malibu Board

Nick Gabaldon (1927-1951)

[ Excerpt from "Xtreme Factor: Urban Legends Become Real Life Heroes," by Rhonda R. Harper, blackathlete.net, May 18, 2007 ]


... African American surfer's visiting a beach in Southern California will most likely hear the story of the African American surfer that was killed by hitting the pier at Malibu... The surfer's name is Nicolas Rolando Gabaldon, Jr. born to Nicolas and Cecelia Gabaldon, February 23, 1927. Nicolas was the first born to Nicolas Gabaldon, and the second born to Cecelia.

Cecelia had a daughter Geraldine Raines, from a previous marriage. The young couple settled into the Santa Monica area of Los Angeles via Albuquerque, New Mexico and Texas.

Santa Monica during the early 1920's, had a thriving black owned business community in the area around 4th and Bay St. Black churchgoers patronized Ink well Beach as a means of socializing after church.

Carloads of girls would arrive at the beach to meet suitors and chat. Blacks in the community frequently patronized the bathhouse and dance clubs nearby.

Inkwell Beach, a 200-ft roped off "for Negroes Only" section of Santa Monica's pristine Gold Coast. During the Jim Crow Era, Inkwell was Nick's homebreak. It was here that Nick honed his surfing skills. Inkwell Beach, is located South of the Santa Monica Pier and north of Ocean Park's Pier.

As the coastal land for which the community was built became more valuable, the desire for the pristine property would increase racial tensions. Whites were becoming more antagonistic. Legal measures were taken so that blacks could not purchase beach properties.

When black business owners tried to purchase the Crystal Plunge site in 1924, an area adjacent to land purchased for a new beach club and hotel, they were rejected. The Casa Del Mar Hotel opened its doors in 1926. Fences were put up to keep the "undesirables" out.

Nicolas Gabaldon attended and graduated high school at Santa Monica High School. His love for the water increased by frequently patronizing the stretch of beach known as the Ink well.

Nick befriended several pioneers of surfing while they were working as a lifeguard in Santa Monica. Lifeguard legend Preston "Pete" Peterson is said to be one of the biggest influences on Nick. He even loaned Nick his lifesaving surfboard to ride.

Upon graduation, Nick enlisted in United States Navy near the end of World War II. While stationed at the United States Naval at Great Lakes Nick became a championship boxer.

At the war's end Nicolas Gabaldon returned to his home in Santa Monica. Nicolas' surfing skills improved and he wanted a new challenge. He then ventured out to the Malibu shores, eventually becoming friends with the elite group of surfers.

Mickey Munoz, legendary surfer says, "Nick took me tandem a few times when I first started surfing, it was an accelerated experience only an expert could guide you to. I think it helped plant the seed of stoke that has lasted all my surfing life."

"First time I saw Nick, he was surfing by what was known then as the Crystal Plunge. He was tall and handsome. He looked like he was Tahitian or Polynesian." Les Williams, one of Nick's best friends recalls the first time he saw Nick surfing in Santa Monica. Les continues, "He was a gentleman. He was accepted and respected by all of us. We didn't look at color, he was just a friend."

On June 5, 1951, one of the biggest swell in Malibu history reported wave heights to 10 feet. Surfers came from as far away as San Onofre to catch these giant waves. It was Nick's first ride of the day and the first wave on his new Bob Simmons balsa wood surfboard.

Nick was not alone on the wave. Nick was on the inside and Bob Hogan was in the rear. As Nick's ride got closer to the pier, Bob called out for Nick to pull out. Nick tried but was not successful. The board was seen striking the pier.

Nick was nowhere in sight. His friends ran down the beach to his rescue but it was too late Nick was gone. Los Angeles Lifeguards recovered Nick's body days later at Las Flores Beach. Nick Gabaldon's untimely death would become a story told for years to come.

Today, the Casa Del Mar Hotel still stands. Inkwell Beach, now a storm drain, is still frequented by blacks. There are black staffed beach clean-ups and inner city youth surf camps are now taking the place of volleyball and dancing. The ropes of separation are long gone, but the spirit of our ancestors still exists...





( Inkwell Beach, circa 1925, courtesy of blackathlete.net )


For full text of this article, please go to:

BA.net: Nick Gabaldon

J Riddle, Malibu & Kiewits

Tim Weil recently wrote in, saying in part:

"My family's surfing stories are MALIBU based as we grew up, a family of 6 brothers, in the Malibu Colony, around the point from Surfrider beach. My brother Matt is a big-wave rider here in the modern era.

"Many of our surf stories have been captured in Bob Feigel's SurfWriter chonicles. I am always on the lookout for a 'missing story'. Case in point RALPH KIEWIT (father) and JOHN KIEWIT (son). Southern California surfing pros..."

Tim gave us the following headsup on info at SurferMag.com, including some great images. Ma'halo, Tim!

J Riddle